INTRODUCTION:
 Makasutu
Culture Forest is a private ecotourism woodland reserve in the
Kombo Central District, of the West Coast Region of The Gambia
in West Africa. The woodland is 5 kilometres to the northeast
of Brikama town, and is directly south
of the Banjul capital. The nature
park has a land area of 405 hectares (1,000 acres) and encompasses
the Mandina Bolong, a tributary of the Gambia
River. The protected wilderness is a pristine expanse of riverine,
palm and hardwood-forest, mangrove creek, savanna and salt-flat
ecosystems.
ACCOMMODATION:
 Within
the conservation area is the award winning, luxury eco-lodge called
Mandina Lodges,
the country's top holiday eco-resort, created by two Englishmen
from London. It's said that during its construction no trees were
felled in Makasutu Culture Forest, and the lodges were designed
to fit available gaps between trees. Local people in neighbouring
settlements, such as Kembujeh Village, were employed during construction,
as hotel staff and as
tour guides on the reserve.
BACKGROUND & HISTORY:
• Myths & Legends
 Makasutu
is a Mandinka word: 'Maka'
is Islam's holy place of Mecca, and 'Sutu' means forest,
which translates to 'holy forest'. The original name 'Maka Sutu'
dates back to the 12th century when Islam swept down into the
Senegambia region from the
Sahara. Mandinka folklore, traced back to the 12th century, says
that a dragon like creature lives in the swamp, known as the 'Ninki
Nanka' (also known as Ninkinanka or Ninkinanko), and guards
the buried clothes and crown of Mansa Jatta, a tribal king from
the Soninke Kingdom of Busumbala, who was slain in battle
by Kombo Sillah, a Muslim king. The Ninki Nanka is also believed
to protect the woods, and adjacent community held orchards from
potential thieves. Local legend also maintained that the woodland
was haunted by spirits or 'djinns', as well as giants, and as
a result, the sacred woodland was uninhabited, and used mostly
for prayer and tribal rituals, such as the bathing of newly circumcised
boys in the waters of the Mandina Bolong. Local kings forbade
any hunting and tree felling on these sacred grounds.
As the 20th century progressed, migrants from Guinea settled in
the area, with the permission of local kings, and began cultivating
rice in the western section of Makasutu. With this encroachment
people's fears of the 'Big Forest' began to diminish, and the
area soon became a valuable source of wild food and timber for
locals living in and around the vicinity.
• Modern Day Development
 The
forest was on the brink of being cleared bare when in December
1992, two adventurous Britons, James
English, an engineer, and Lawrence Williams, an architect,
came to The Gambia to continue their 3 year search for a location
to build an eco-retreat in the wilderness, and finally decided
on a parcel of land in the Makasutu. Initially, local people and
the Alkalo were reluctant to sell it to them based on the areas
sacredness. Eventually they managed to acquire 4 acres of land
from the Sanneh Kunda (family) who held ancient title to the land.
The entrepreneurs' intention was to create a small camp oasis
for adventure travellers and backpackers. After buying the land
they departed to Europe on a 3 month trip. During their absence
about 200 trees bordering the fence was cut down, and accelerated
tree felling was underway, the spot's sanctity having been further
eroded. With all of the deforestation that was occurring in the
area, Sanneh Kunda, as well as the Department
of Forestry, urged James and Lawrence to purchase the area
to protect it.
 The
initial plan for just a small base camp for backpackers was abandoned,
and they eventually bought the remaining 4 square kilometres of
land and proceeded to fence it. Over the next few years 15,000
trees were replanted, and 70 water wells were dug to keep them
watered. The fenced area was now to be a nature and cultural reserve,
emphasising how the local people live, and also to encourage the
return of wildlife to the sub-tropical woodland and riverine.
The local people that were living and utilizing the woods and
streams, prior to the arrival of James and Lawrence, were permitted
to stay on the land, meetings were held with them, and it was
decided to integrate them into the sustainable eco-tourism venture
that was in the pipeline. It took seven years to complete the
project and the first place to be developed was called the 'Base
Camp', followed by the Baobab Cultural Centre. Finally, on the
20th July 1999, Makasutu Culture Forest was open to tourists as
well as the general Gambian public.
 Many
visitors expressed their wish to be able to sleep on the site
because of the serenity they experienced at the ecological project.
As a result of this feedback it was decided to further develop
the site to include a 5 star, creekside eco-lodge, known as 'Mandina
River & Jungle Lodges'. It incorporates sustainable measures,
such as composting toilets, and solar-powered water heating and
lighting systems. Designed by Lawrence, building began in
2000, and since its completion and opening in late 2002, the project
has created alternative livelihoods in the community through the
employment of over 250 local people from the nearby villages;
and it is estimated that the wilderness project and Mandina River
Lodges, indirectly benefits about 3,500 local people.
 At
Makasutu's Base Camp, an impressively tall, white viewing
tower was opened in December 2013, straddled by two spiral
staircases and 3 elevated viewing platforms. From here you can
take in fantastic vistas of the palm trees, mangrove creeks, the
Mandina Bolong and savanna habitats. You also get the chance to
cool off in the irregular shaped swimming pool with
its own island, set in a landscaped garden and dotted with palm
trees and night lights. Visitors can also do a little shopping
at the Craft Centre, where you can pick up wooden
masks, drums and other tourist souvenirs. You can also see
people weaving, silversmiths at work and other craftsmen.
You can also try your hand at pottery, cooking,
furniture making and a wood carving lesson.
AWARDS:
 Since
the opening of Makasutu and Mandina Lodges, the project has gone
on to win several international awards, such as being voted the
'Best New Eco Hotel in The World' by the UK's Sunday Times (2003);
'Best Overseas Development' by the 'British Guild of Travel Writers
Award' (2004); and has been highly commended at the 'Responsible
Tourism Awards' as the 'Best Poverty Alleviation'. It has also
featured in past editions of Travel Africa Magazine.
NATURE TRAIL & CULTURE TOUR:
 Most
tourist visitors come on the one-day organised excursion, including
return transport to the resorts. The entry fee includes the standard
full-day guided tour, including entertainment and lunch. However,
your group size could number up to a couple of dozen. Independent
travellers can choose to go on a full-day or half-day guided cultural
/ eco-tour. To get the most out of the full-day excursion to Makasutu
Culture Forest, an early start is required. If the drive is from
hotels in the main coastal resorts of Kololi,
Kotu or Bijilo,
then it takes about 1 hour to the nature park. If you are part
of a ground tour operator organised day-trip, then on your arrival
you begin by walking through woodland to the assembly area. From
there your tour group then takes a nice stroll to the Baobab
Bar and Restaurant, where you will be greeted and given a
brief history of the place. On the way there you will see some
tree stumps carved into sculptors, these are the remnants from
the time locals were chopping down trees.
 From
here your itinerary can involve cruises along the mangrove creeks
or guided foot treks. Along the nature trail through diverse
ecosystems including Guinea savannah and tropical gallery woodland,
your appointed guide might point to the various tree species,
such as mahogany, rhun palms and baobab. Depending on the time
of day you might see some birds and monkeys, though the simians
here are more withdrawn than their counterparts in Bijilo.
During your walk look out for the ubiquitous termite mounds, some
over 2 metres high.
 While
along the bush walk you are likely to walk by the hut of a traditional
Gambian medicine man, who produces and sells herbal potions of
traditional medicines
and remedies from trees and bushes growing in the area, as well
as charms. The holy man or Marabout also reads palms and 'predicts'
your future. Further on the trail you will get an opportunity
to watch how a palm wine tapper hauls
himself up a tree using a leather belt (traditionally a palm frond
sling) which straps him loosely to the tree, to collect the
sweet flower sap. You will also get the opportunity to sample
some of the fermented wine.
 Probably
the best part of the day in Makasutu Culture Forest is the
canoeing along the Mandina Bolong and adjacent mangrove creeks
in an African pirogue, a wooden dugout canoe made from a single
log of mahogany. This is a most relaxing cruise with some wonderful,
close up views of the region's mangrove and palm fringed habitats.
The meandering waters are calm and glistening, with lots of silence
and serenity, and all you will hear as you drift down the waters
are the sporadic bird calls, the constant dipping of the rower's
paddle and the occasional chatter of the other tourists. You might
spot Mangrove Sunbirds feeding off nectar, and African Darters
swimming with only their head and neck above water while hunting
for fish, or Lily Trotters walking on the floating vegetation
of the mangrove swamp.
 Occasionally
you will see local village fishermen at work or women collecting
oysters from underwater roots. You might even be able to take
a canoe ride to nearby Kubuneh Village, where you can visit the
living art project called "Wide Open Walls". The idea
is to paint some of the compounds in the Ballabu
area with murals, and promote The Gambia as a desirable tourist
destination. Note: if you bring along your own rod and tackle
it is possible to try your hand at a little fishing
from the main jetty on the Mandina Bolong.
 There
is an alfresco buffet lunch of organic Gambian food such as rice
with peanut stew (Domoda),
Jollof Rice with fish
and vegetables, served back at the Baobab Restaurant, with its
tall, spacious Bantaba (thatched, shaded structure).
After lunch comes the entertainment. A group of Makasutu based
Jola dancers and drummers from the nearby
Kembujeh Village, start their routine performance on a natural
stage, under the gaze of a huge baobab tree. You are often encouraged
to join in the dance. This however is not necessarily the end
of the entertainment. If you stay until the early evening then
you can  experience
the 'Night Extravaganza', fires are lit, the barbecue gets
going and the heavy entertainment gets underway; often featuring
djembe drumming, cultural dancing,
acrobats, fire breathers, jugglers, stilted men (Mamapara).
At the end of it all you are escorted out, dancing along a lantern
lit procession between the trees before departing for your hotel.
ANIMALS / FAUNA:
 Among
the mammal species you might encounter in the various habitats
are monkeys such as a troupe of Guinea Baboons, Western Red Colobus
Monkeys, Vervet Monkeys. Other animals include the elusive mongoose,
bats, squirrels and Dwarf deer. There are also reptiles such as
monitor lizards and crocodiles along the riverbanks and in the
water. Among the invertebrates are fiddler crabs, and insects
such as termites and ants.
BIRDS / AVIFAUNA:
 Among
the over 100 bird species birdwatching
enthusiasts might see in Makasutu Cultural Forest are the Splendid
Sunbird, African Paradise Flycatcher, Four-banded Sandgrouse,
Little Bee-eater, Mouse-brown Sunbird, Blue-bellied Roller, Wattled
Plover, Jacana, Western Reef Heron, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater,
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, Red-billed Firefinch, Senegal thick-knee,
Palm-nut Vulture, Great White Egret, Yellow-Billed Shrike, Violet
Turaco, European Pied Wagtail, Senegal Coucal, White-throated
Bee-eater, Long-tailed Cormorant, Bearded Barbet, Red-billed Hornbill,
Western Grey Plantain Eater, Laughing Dove, Lizard Buzzard, African
Grey Hornbill, Black-crowned Tchagra, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird,
Speckled Pigeon, African Darter, Goliath Heron, Purple Heron,
Blue-breasted Kingfisher and the Senegal Parrot.
VEGETATION / FLORA:
Among the vegetation in the woodland and wetland habitats are
various palm trees such as coconuts, mangroves, silk cotton trees
(kapok), banana, camel's foot tree, strangler figs, mahogany and
baobab trees.
HEALTH & SAFETY:
Before your visit to Makasutu Culture Forest consider carrying
or wearing boots, thick trousers, a hat, UV sunglasses, a pocket
torchlight, purified water, hand sanitizer, lip balm, a
small rucksack, and rub on or spray plenty of mosquito repellent.
Avoid turning over logs and stones due to the possible risk of
being bitten by spiders or snakes, and don't swim in the creeks
or river as there maybe crocodiles and other things around. If
you have a modern mobile phone then carry it with you, along with
a few phone numbers of members from your group, as well as your
appointed tour guide. Download the Google maps app and find your
location before your arrival, and learn how to use it. Finally,
never wonder off alone.
TRAVEL INFORMATION & HOW TO GET THERE:
 The
best time of year to visit Makasutu is after the end of the Gambia's
rainy season, between the end of November to April, when the grass
is cleared from paths, visibility is best and animals congregate
around ponds and streams. Independent travellers should take one
of the bush taxis or 'Gelle Gelle' van
from Serrekunda to Brikama,
then get out and change to a taxi going to Kembujeh Village, however,
it's a 3 kilometre walk from there. Alternatively, from Brikama
you can take a 'town trip' (exclusive hire) to take you directly
to the forest. The park also has a shuttle service departing from
Brikama at about 9am and returning you at 4.30pm. The most convenient
(and expensive) way to go is to simply hire a green jeep style
4x4 taxi for the time you want, from the Senegambia
Strip taxi rank in Kololi. It will
take you there and stay with you until you are ready to go back
to your hotel. Expect to travel for 1 hour each way.
Contact Address Details:
Makasutu Culture Forest  (MCF)
Nature Reserve & Day Visitor Centre
(near Kubuneh & Bafuloto villages)
Makasutu
Wildlife Trust 
Abuko Nature Reserve
P.O. Box 2309, Serrekunda
The Gambia, West Africa
Tel no: +220 448 3335
Email: drumohq@qanet.gm
Mandina
Lodges Map
Photos
Resorts
[Geographical coordinates 13.1000° N, 16.7667° W / Kombo
Central, Western Region]
|
|
Attractions
Nature Reserves
Resorts
Bakau
Banjul
Bijilo
Brufut
Cape
Point
Fajara
Gunjur
Jinack
Island
Kartong
Kololi
Kotu
Makasutu
Sanyang
Serrekunda
Tanji Village
|
